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YouShop International Mail Forwarding Review

Herewith, my mail forwarding experience with YouShop, New Zealand Post’s US-based mail forwarding service. As an online shopper, I was interested to see what this was like – especially when packaging I had no control over impacted my shipping costs. And maybe you will be, too.

What Is YouShop, Again? New Zealand Post, in response to Kiwis’ desire for unlimited online shopping, has set up a mail forwarding service based in Portland, Oregon. You send a USA-acquired purchase that doesn’t ship overseas to the YouShop location in Oregon. The NZ Post employee there then weighs it, and tells you how much to pay for forwarding. Once you’ve paid online, NZ Post sends it to you in New Zealand, for a price. Note that NZ Post never opens the package, and does not consolidate multiple packages, most likely to reduce their liability.

The Test: In the post-Christmas online sales, I ordered two pairs of jeans from new-to-me brands, from two different online retailers. They were separately forwarded by YouShop. I had amazingly different experiences for the two different packages.

Item 1: A pair of NYDJ jeans from Amazon.com. On sale, $34 US; free Super Saver shipping from Amazon.com.

Have you ever seen anything so enthralling in your life??

Jeans #1 in their simple envelope, with a full-sized bottle of nail polish for scale.

  • Packaging: Slim minimum-weight plastic bag, shown above.
  • YouShop forwarding charge: $22.
  • Experience: From ordering jeans to admiring my butt in the mirror – 14 days exactly, over the holiday period, no less. I received *four* status emails: one saying that YouShop had received my package, one saying the package had been sent to New Zealand, one saying it had arrived in New Zealand, and one saying it had been delivered.
  • Comparable jeans purchase in New Zealand: $235 minimum. Definitely one of those NZ markup items. “Aren’t those jeans expensive??” a co-worker asked. US site prices are $140 US to $77 US, depending.
  • Overall: WIN. Even with the YouShop forwarding cost, I anticipate an excellent return on investment for this garment – transeasonal, well-made, and flexible. Also, garment fits perfectly – deliciously, even – and is strikingly attractive. And unique. And…well, this is what mail forwarding is for.

Item 2: A pair of raspberry-hued jeans from Ann Taylor Loft. On sale, $17.99 US, with $7.95 shipping. I’ve always loved wearing burgundy/berry tones, so for me the color trend is a chance to stock up on a shade.

ERMAGHERD. CERDBERD BERX.

Massive packaging difference with Jeans #2 – note that the for-scale nail polish is dwarfed.

  • Packaging: A modest shoebox-sized box, shown above.
  • YouShop Forwarding Charge: $36.00. WHAAAA?
  • Experience: Frankly, I was so thrown by the different shipping fee, it took me a week to click “Complete Order.” I did have the package in five days – they left it on my home doorstep. Again, I received progress emails – which was good because it let me know to look for the package.
  • Comparable jeans purchase in New Zealand: Depends on quality. Cheapies available from $49.00 at Glassons, $59.00 at JeansWest or Just Jeans. I’d have to alter the length, though.
  • Overall: I feel… punished by this one. How am I supposed to know if my items will be in featherweight ecopackaging, or if they’ll be mummified in a box? Why do I have to pay $14 more for the privilege of a cardboard box and a piece of paper packaging? I would have been OK with $5 – $7 more. Adding to my grousing, the jeans had fit issues (too large, when does that happen??). After washing them in ultra-hot water and running them through the dryer, they’re at the tailor.
Naked jeans!!!!

The two pairs of jeans, free of all packaging and folded once at the knee, beside each other with the for-scale nail polish. The NYDJ jeans are heavier.

Final YouShop Verdict

Recommended, with “caveat emptor” in place. The timing is reliable, but variability in packaging makes using YouShop shipping cost roulette. In future I will use YouShop for otherwise elusive must-have items – wardrobe foundation pieces, in petite sizing, items with which I fall sickeningly in love, shoes and boots. Or for small light parcels such as makeup, electronics components, specialist hardware, or lingerie.

You Shop ties into the psychology of online shopping by extending the shopping experience. The status emails each provide a little positive mental ping, echoing the mild endorphin rush of shopping itself. But not enough to overcome the anxiety of finding out if a package is light or heavy by their standards.

Bear in mind that, if the option is at all available, direct international shipping may work out to be about the same or cheaper.

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Friday Follies: V-Day Vinegar and Violets

Valentine’s Day in New Zealand seems like…not such a big deal. The candy is minimal; lots of schools don’t exchange valentine’s cards amongst the kids. While adult couples do the dining-out prixe-fixe death march, there’s not even that many anti-V-Day club nights.

If you want to dream of love and romance, for alternative nuptials you can’t go past Offbeat Bride. They profile weddings, civil unions, and commitment ceremonies for those of us left, right, and upside-down of center to dream about, from gay lumberjacks in the woods to steampunk goth fantasias to eco-cycled backyard picnics.

Also, they were very good-natured about The Onion parody of alternative eco-nuptials, Horrible Couple Really Wants Wedding to Reflect Their Personalities. Or how about those old-time Vinegar Valentines? And serious foodies know to not dine out on V-Day.

The Worst Thing About Valentine’s Day, by The Oatmeal, sums up all the ambivalence around this romantic holiday.

When I was growing up on Valentine’s Day, in my family, we got up in the morning to find that my mother had placed a Valentine and a box of heart-shaped chocolates by our breakfast seat. Not only did this save Valentine’s Day for us forever by making it about all kinds of love, not just “romance”, but it kept us from having to pretend we liked eating conversation hearts. But how hot are conversation hearts EN ESPANOL?

If you’re staying home, make some chocolate mousse. I’m so pleased that David Leibovitz agrees with me about Julia Child’s chocolate mousse being fantastic. Here’s a vegan version that looks like a winner – trust me on the tofu, okay?

Note that this is a small car, just for the driver herself
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Your Mileage May Vary: Women, Cars, Wellington

In one of those life-phase convergences, it seems like I and half my friends are suddenly updating our vehicles. Hence, a post about driving and buying cars while female in Wellington, New Zealand.

Note that this is a small car, just for the driver herself

Aspirational images of fashionable women with cars, 90 years ago and today; click to read the modern driver, Affi’s, take on her car.

Wellington region driving requires vehicular oomph and endurance. We drive and park on steep, winding hill roads, wrangle a storm-swept stretch of highway across Wellington Harbour, and accelerate on other highways that ascend/descend at 45-degree angles. I needed a reliable gas sipper that could take it – my sweet spot was a car with an engine between 1.5 and 1.8 liters. And I wanted to enjoy the 20th-century pleasure of driving while it’s still accessible. You know, while we still have petroleum and the resources to maintain cars.

The moniker of “girl car” is often slapped, like a cartoon character’s feminizing ribbon bow, on visually appealing, fuel-efficient, reliable vehicles. I am grumpy that “girl car” is an insult to the point that I myself feel awkward handling the term – even though I was shopping for a quintessential girl car.  “Girl car” stigma followed me around the car lots. During my month-long car hunt, if I went by myself, salesmen (always men) went deaf and failed to hear my engine requirements.

Despite this, time to look around and reacquaint myself with cars today was very useful, both seeing them in person and checking online reviews. You can find long-term driving online reviews for most cars from 2004 onwards, and these are more meaningful than one-offs. Search for “long term” and “road tests”.  In print, even though its authorial voice is “Boys’ Town Gazette,” I enjoyed the irreverent, informative magazine Top Gear NZ, which has a summary of all the new cars on the market here. Talking with my friends also helped: I had an epic 50-comment social media conversation that was 100% women. “Are you going to get heated seats? A reversing camera? Keyless starting? iPod stereo? A hybrid?” Stymied on hybrids because I don’t have anywhere to plug one in, here’s what I looked at, and what I thought.

  • Hondas – The compact Fit/Jazz is supposed to be good, and I liked it. However, used ones with the 1.5 liter engine carried a premium price, and the ones I did find outside of Honda itself seemed tired after the rigors of Wellington driving. The 1.5 liter Fit Aria sedan finds its way here as an import and, on a test drive, was perfectly adequate, if boxy going around corners. It’s popular in Asia and is worth a look if you are on a budget and need space and security rather than an exciting drive – lots of them get imported into Auckland. Mid-2000s Civics were on the stodgy side – the hatchbacks would make great family cars, or cars for surfers, but I didn’t need that much room. Civics after 2009 looked appealing, but weren’t in my budget.
  • Toyotas – Having had the Vitz/Yaris and the Corolla recommended multiple times, I tried these, too. A friend’s Vitz has survived an incredible amount of driving throughout New Zealand. 1.5 to 1.8 liter ones were punchy, especially the sports versions. Some of these were keyless, a usability change on a par from changing from an older mobile phone to a smartphone.
  • Volkswagen – The boxy but handsome Volkswagen Polo is a favorite with many, and suits Wellington’s driving conditions well, if you can afford the service. I heard the caveat often, “If you can’t afford a new European car, you can’t afford a used one,” because of the service costs.
  • Mazdas/Fords – Mazdas and Fords, despite massive branding differences, are vehicular cousins today, manufactured in close association. Again, it’s challenging to find used ones with engines between 1.5 and 2 liters used in Wellington, because they get bought quickly, with a used-car premium. The Ford Fiesta is similar to the Mazda 2; the Mazda 3 has many fans among my friends; the Ford Focus comes across as a good solid option.
  • Based on my requirements, I should have looked at Nissans, but none captured my attention. They seem like good cars for a good price. -shrugs- I also neglected Kias (just not that many of them) and the Suzuki Swift (very few 1.5 liters in my price range, never quite satisfied with the interiors I saw.)
  • Lemons to avoid are often the “cute cars” of five to ten years ago. I took a peek at some of these, read the online comments, and said “Never mind.” These included: used new-generation Mini Coopers (expensive! CRAZY dashboards), used 2000’s VW Bugs (low luggage space, visibility issues for drivers, and body paint problems in the NZ climate), used Mercedes A-class compacts (don’t get me started).

Being short influenced my car buying experience to a surprising degree. Bringing somebody taller along was a useful way to check that a vehicle that was fine for me was also passable for my passengers. Car salesmen tend to be tall, and car negotiations often begin while everyone is standing up, emphasizing the height difference. (The one woman I found employed at a car place was also tall!) An affable, polite tall salesman talking to me is like a friendly giant – I remain somewhat wary. A tall salesman who decides to play hardball or get aggressive comes across as a brute pretty quickly. (One of these reminded me of Swelter from Gormenghast; another evoked a chilly, dead-eyed H.P. Lovecraft villain.) While these encounters were fascinating, I don’t give brutes my money. The one short salesman I ran across cleverly neutralized his height – and mine – by sitting beside me in cars. Tall salesmen who want shorter customers to feel respected should do this more. By the end of my car search I was deploying fiercely confident body language and flinging myself into equalizing chairs whenever possible.

My top three picks for dealers in the Wellington region are as follows:

  • Upper Hutt Car Sales – This is where I bought my car, a Mazda2. Worth the trip: their web site lists incoming vehicles as well as cars available on site. Lots of Toyotas, Mazdas, and Nissans. The sales staff are low-pressure and genuinely helpful. I’d send my sister here if I had a sister.
  • Turner’s – A large, also low-pressure used car sales place/auctioneer, with a good reputation overall. Largest price range of these three recommendations, from $2000 to premium secondhand.
  • Honda Cars Wellington – Trustworthy cars sold by mannerly staff. I showed up one day to test drive in post-dance-event clothes (showgirl makeup, multiple flower hair clips) and was treated as an intelligent car buyer. Also, note their very good finance interest rate.

Even if you aren’t car shopping right now, here’s some excellent reading about women and/or cars:

  • The Rise of the Flapper – “The rise of the automobile was another factor in the rise of flapper culture. Cars meant a woman could come and go as she pleased, travel to speakeasys and other entertainment venues, and use the large vehicles of the day for heavy petting or even sex.”
  • Cellomom on Cars – Dry, witty, and environmentally minded, this car reviewer looks at both fuel usage and whether a vehicle can fit her three children and a cello inside it.
  • Mis-managed marketing to women – Focusing on the new Honda Fit She, a vehicular embarrassment supreme. “If you just say, ‘Here’s a pink phone for women, or a pink shirt for women,’ women will shoot you in the face.”
  • J.G. Ballard on Cars – In this piece, written in 1971, J.G. Ballard, the author of Crash, foretells the demise of the steering wheel: self-driving cars are becoming legal today.
  • It doesn’t get any more staggering than this history of Hitler and the VW Bug here, complete with photos of Hitler caressing a model of a VW Bug. “Punchbuggy” will never be the same.
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Out in the Square 2013, Post II: So Fabulous

More irresistible images from queer pride in Wellington!

Oh hi, we're going ahead and starting the future.

Right to left: vendors for the day included designer Suzanne Tamaki, artist Angela Wells, steampunk demoiselle. What the future looks like!

The chocolate ones were seriously fantastic

Magnificently delicious cupcakes by Cakes by Esme – click on the link to get these in the Wellington area.

Is it lovey dovey stuff? Or do you need a bit of rough?

A beloved Wellington queer treat was back – the Lessie Lollies! Homemade Butch Brittle is my favorite.

Love you, Laquisha!

Dreamy drag emcee Laquisha Redfern introduced the Rainbow Burlesque Troupe.

Pretty in peach!

This vision of style urged me to pull back with the camera. “I want the crowd. I WANT THE CROWD!!!” Rest assured: the crowd wants YOU.

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Out in the Square 2013, Post I: Burlesque and Retro

Photo post – the Rainbow Troupe’s second performance, and some burlesque and retro style, all at Wellington’s 2013 Out in the Square GLBQT pride day.

Just a hunka' hunka' burnin' love

Miss Honey Suckle as lady Elvis rocked our socks and shook her famous “assels”.

Note the incredible wind bowing down the trees.

Sharing a kiss behind the balloon bunches, right before letting them fly to the skies! Cleverly, they’re in the reverse rainbow order of the backdrop behind them, so they stand out brilliantly.

The butches ranged from boyishly cute to serious swagger!

This year we had both femme beauties and butchy babes for a lighthearted burlesque vision of the 1950s as they should have been.

Yes, I coordinated/produced the Rainbow Troupe again for 2013, with serious production support from Winnie Chester. And what a troupe it was: Salacious Sugar, The Velvet Whip, Atomic Ruby, Miss La Belle, Flic Caracou, Ula Vulk, The Deity Dollicious, and The Purple Rose were our living rainbow, and we had a guest appearance from lady Elvis brought to us by Miss Honey Suckle. More than a few people came by Civic Square especially to see the performance. Thanks to the whole Out in the Square team for making it go like buttah!

And now for some additional glimpses of burlesque and retro style from this fabulous afternoon of fabulosity:

Can I be her when I grow up?

This is my favorite picture of the entire day – a perfect lady. Like the background says, “LOVE!”

Red gold and green!

This stunning burlesque chanteuse shared the stage with us. We’ll be seeing more of her in Wellington!

Not only are they so cute, they're color coordinated

Young volunteers mixing up vintage plus. They were staffing one of several vintage clothing booths – some real bargains out there.

Love the bowler

Edgy burlesque performer Candy Thorne livens up a windy Wellington day.

Bow chicka bow bow!

Miss La Belle, burlesque star and teacher, relaxing after her first performance of the year.

Look out for Post #2 with more great style and atmosphere shots!

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Friday Follies: When Orange Attacks and Rainbows Return

The Rainbow Troupe is returning to Out in the Square on Saturday, January 19th – look for them onstage between 12:15 and 12:45!

The Rainbow Troupe for 2013, see them at Out in the Square tomorrow!

The Rainbow Troupe for 2013, see them at Out in the Square tomorrow!

Macklemore, the rapper who brought us Thrift Shop, supports queer rights and gay marriage, and his song “Same Love” went viral. Video below. Food for thought while poppin’ tags.

A great post on skirt lengths. In fact I think I love her blog, Extra Petite, in general. Makeup for beginners, and her “how to look older” post can also be read as “how to be very casual yet a touch polished.” Related: how to turn a straight skirt into a pencil skirt.

All that damn orange that the stores were trying to sell us in spring – is anybody wearing it? Anyone? I’m only seeing it deployed in shoes – people are keeping it as far from their faces as possible. I’m playing with jewel tones this summer – mustard, violet, cobalt – despite my pale complextion, courtesy of MAC Chili lipstick. Redheads, this is a good one for us!

I enjoy reading about travel, but many intense travel blogs seem to be by cocky male twentysomethings, extolling living out of an exquisitely curated backpack. Two travel blogs by women to inspire us. The Bold Soul moved to Paris at age 45, built a new career, and a new life. And Legal Nomads, about a woman who quit her job in law to travel, eat interesting food, and write. She has wise words on travel, traveling alone as a woman, and reverse culture shock/returning somewhere after a long time. Most of my international travel has been alone or only periodically accompanied and I hope to do an RTW (round-the-world) sometime in the next ten years.

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Get The Most from a Photo Shoot

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Was I happy, or unhappy, with how I looked on this day? It doesn’t matter – I had a great time at this shoot, and it showed. The results: a pretty photo of Sadie von Scrumptious, burlesque emcee. Courtesy of Ataahua Pinups.

Do you want to have good pictures taken, beautiful pictures, but…you’re waiting? Waiting for your hair to grow out, for that 5-or-10 kilo weight loss, or to mysteriously turn into Dita von Teese overnight? Why not just do it? Make 2013 the year you get in front of the camera!

Let’s revisit the weight loss one because I can’t tell you how many times that has been cited as a barrier. Stop postponing your life until you lose weight, says fitness blogger and yoga teacher Amber, and how right she is. She conveninently linked to this post on How To Not Hate Being Photographed, too.

There are four factors that make it possible to capture the best possible images of you. You outsource one of them when you sign up for a photo session and you can achieve the remaining three.

  • Professional photography lighting. Photographers use light photons to blast your features into luminescent perfection.
  • Being healthy. Well rested, hydrated, glowing from fruit and vegetables and activity. You know the drill.
  • Being well groomed. Your efforts to be polished will pay off.
  • Being happy. Your emotional state, more than anything, shines through in photographs.
"We make your cellphone work!"

A professional headshot, courtesy of Matt Walsh.

What To Wear

  • Your outfit should fit, or be a little roomy. Leave the garments-you-hope-to-fit-into-soon at home.
  • For a portrait/head shot, wear a plain top or a collared shirt in a jewel tone or strong neutral. Matching your eye color is always safe. A feature necklace or earrings are also good. Avoid wearing black, white, small patterns, or shiny fabric.
  • For a pinup/burlesque/boudoir shoot, expect that your whole body will be photographed and that you must provide your entire outfit, down to long gloves and hair clips. Some studios provide props and costuming – find this out before the shoot.
  • If a studio is providing extensive costuming for a pin-up shoot, I still like to bring the following: “dark” lingerie set with stockings and shoes and gloves; “light” lingerie set with stockings and shoes and gloves; a robe; at least one complete outfit I want photographed. The two lingerie sets are a useful foundation for other corsets, robes, or dresses.
  • If you are bringing full outfits, set up the outfits before hand. Try them on, test them in a mirror, and if required iron/press them.  More than 4 outfits in a session devoted to you will make the photographer’s head hurt. So, keep it to 4 outfits or fewer.
  • If you are dubious about your arms at all, feel free to cover them up. Sleeves, wraps, jackets, feather boas, lace shawls, long gloves. Unhappy with your abdomen? Wear corsets, girdles, or “shapewear” – undergarments like the Spanx sausage cases (I prefer the firmer Nancy Ganz line myself).
It's a darn shame my adorable black tilt hat doesn't show against the black background.

Professional eye makeup makes my eyes huge, and the ringlet hairpiece looks all right. But where’s the top of my head? It’s my own fault for choosing a black tilt hat doesn’t show against the black background. Practice session with Toya Heatley.

Physical Preparation/Grooming

  • Do your nails! Male, female “not proud” of your hands and feet, the camera accepts no excuses. Maximize your nail attractiveness, from a simple trim/buff/hand creaming to a manicure and pedicure supreme.
  • Do you dye your hair? Retint during the week before the shoot. Hair roots show and are challenging to Photoshop.
  • Get a good night’s sleep. Not just for the sake of beauty sleep – posing is exhausting.
  • Drink lots of water the night before the shoot, moisturize lavishly, and avoid alcohol.
  • Shave. Especially your armpits. Body hair is, again, difficult to Photoshop.
  • If you are going to be nude at the shoot, when you get up that day, bathe/shower, shave everything that’s getting shaved, then put on loose outer garments, going commando underneath. This prevents your underwear, especially your bra, “marking” your body with pressure lines.
  • Clean & combed hair, please. “But my hair needs to be dirty for retro styling!” Then, before styling, hit your hair up with dry shampoo, which removes greasiness while making your hair behave for backcombing, rolling, and the like.
  • If you want your hair to be longer, shorter, or otherwise different, wigs or hairpieces can help.
  • Should you get your makeup done professionally? More expensive shoots may include this as part of the service. If you are not used to doing your own makeup, or you want a very dramatic look, I recommend this. Schedule makeup in the AM, the shoot in the PM, and do something fun that evening so your made-up face gets an outing.
  • Personally, I eat low-carb, lower-fat food the day before a shoot. I eat a light breakfast. And then after the shoot I fall face down into a platter of Thai food or the like. Amusingly, food and drink during shoots seems to be in the same amnesty zone as diet drinks.

Photo Shoot Etiquette

  • Ask for what you want well in advance, and be clear about costs. Not only does this help reduce post-production angst, but it ensures that you get the shoot you want. For burlesque or other performance promotion photos, a white background is helpful so that designers can edit out the background and add you to posters. Black backgrounds can create striking portraits, but any black accessories, or even brunette hair, gets lost.
  • Show up on time, with your outfits organized, your hair done or ready to do, and your face either made up or ready to be made up.
  • If a photographer prefers to be professional and distant, let them. They don’t have to be your best friend to be talented and take good pictures of you.
  • Expect your photos within 1 – 2 weeks.
  • If the photographer is a hobbyist friend who isn’t charging you – offer to buy lunch, contribute to transport or processing costs, or give a koha towards equipment. I remember buying film for somebody back in the day. Remember film?
This photo illustrates several posing and outfit tactics.

This photo illustrates several posing/dressing tactics. My3/4 body turn is slimming. My outstretched arm is slimmer-looking than my un-photoshopped bent arm, and my manicured nails show up in the picture. The dark background is an excellent contrast for a white dress – one reason that brides wear white still. On this sunny day, the photographer has posed me in the shade. Shady light flatters the skin, and I’m not squinting against the light. Photo courtesy of Digitalpix and their “Trash the Dress” photography workshop.

Posing

Posing is vital! Working with the photographer on posing makes the most of how you look.

  • Inside Out Style Blog has great posing tips, as does Betty Bombshell’s Plain Jane to Pinup Queen book, as does Photography Awesomesauce.
  • A 3/4 headshot helps obscure any facial assymetry, and a 3/4 body turn is slimming.
  • Being slightly below the photographer/having the photographer shoot from above is also slimming.
  • Practicing your poses in a full-length mirror (or a hand mirror for face shots) is dorky, but it works.
  • Try to be phyiscally relaxed and express happiness. Play with the posing – ham it up – have some fun. When I’ve been stiff in front of a camera, a good tactic has been to have a friend stand beside the photographer and banter with me.

If You Have Been Requested/Hired As A Model

    • Ask, tactfully, why  you? Why were you requested? Experience? A particular “look”? Your sizeable wardrobe? Your body modifications, or lack thereof? It’s always good to know.
    • Make yourself a good model by working with the photographer’s reasonable requests. Myself, I have avoided sunlight, grown and manicured my nails, made myself up with a specific “look”, and brought along clothes for said specific look.
    • Be firm about your boundaries. If you’re not comfortable with the picture, or the vibe of the shoot, say no and be prepared to walk. I once arrived at a shoot, took a look around, felt my hackles rise, and walked without even putting my bag down. It was a perfectly clean city apartment, with a colorless mild-mannered male photographer, and yet something just wasn’t right. I’m glad I didn’t find out what.
    • If you were polite and timely and  prepared – and don’t get asked for again – you didn’t do anything wrong. Some photographers like to work with lots of different models, capturing many fresh looks. Others may feel they didn’t have chemistry with you. Let it go and move on.
Is it I? Come reply! Mirror, mirror, tell me truly!

A glimpse of a flattering pinup shot by Ataahua Pinups.

What Could Possibly Go Wrong?

  • You need to cancel – For me, cancellation reasons have included being sick and being grief-stricken. (I find that my emotional state is reflected in photographs – whether I want it to be or not.) Let the photographer know ASAP.
  • You think you look awful in test shots – Don’t freak out, and don’t get mad at the photographer. Try one of your other outfits, more makeup, a new angle, even a different backdrop. Shots often improve as a shoot progresses.
  • You and the photographer don’t click – It’s happened to me. I show up, they show up, even after giving it some time, the magic didn’t happen. If everyone is present, correct, and professional, at least you can speak up and ask for what you want.
  • An idea or outfit doesn’t work – At one of my shoots, an emcee costume that had received lots of compliments in real life turned out to be a difficult dud on camera. The correct attitude is to shrug and say “Moving on!” I’d like to praise the photographer in this instance for speaking up and saying “That’s not working” – when the photographer and you aren’t clicking, they may not say anything.
  • Post-production drama – Both I and others have been unhappy with shoot results. I myself once went for professional headshots with a well-known local photographer, found him dull and absent during the session, and sure enough, the resulting shots looked like he’d phoned it in. Irritating! Another time, a friend of mine wasn’t happy with the severely Photoshopped results of her shoot. She would have preferred more images from the shoot that represented what she saw as her real self.

The more you work with a photographer, the more the photographer works with you.

Wellington Area Photographers

For those of us in the Wellington area, this list has grown over the past year! Another reason why there’s never been a better time to get some pictures taken.

  • D-Pix/Ataahua Pinups – Teriffic and fun portraits, wedding photography, and pin-up shots. And Ever So Scrumptious blog readers can have a PINUP SHOOT SPECIAL! Use the code SCRUMPTIOUS when you book a pinup shoot and get it at half price – $120 instead of $250. It doesn’t get any better than this!!!
  • Foto Graffito – More sophisticated black and white work. Great at capturing expression, I especially recommend him for photographing men.
  • Jules Townsend – Portraits to pin-ups to wedding photography. Fresh liveliness and great sense of color.
  • A La Mode  -High-end Wellington photography with studio. Want to look like you should be in Italian Vogue? You can, starting at about $500 (note the print costs here).
  • Kardan Photography – More edgy, sophisticated black and white work. Again, higher prices. In Wellington, also visits Auckland.
  • Miss T Pin-Ups, Auckland – Provides “full service” with makeup, hair styling, costuming, and extensive Photoshopping. Shoots are often staged at especially lovely locations, too. A premium shoot, priced appropriately. Auckland based but visits Hamilton and Wellington.

Serious about pin-up modeling? That’s a whole other story! As a starting point, if you want pin-up or figure modeling opportunities, contact a local camera club.  Hutt Camera Club uses models. For long-term or seriously-earning-money modeling, post on Model Mayhem.

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Correspondence: 1930s for Special Occasions

I’ve been friends with American Magpie for 24 years! It was delightful to hear from her when she got in touch to ask  about vintage style for special occasions.

I would like to start the process of amassing some wardrobe pieces in a 1930s style (dresses, mainly). I’m looking for fairly simple ones, not high fashion examples of the genre, but ones with a nice drape that show off my, um, hour-glassiness, to good advantage. I’m really not a dress-up person – work clothes are mainly dark trousers, a nice blouse and a scarf, and I grub around in gardens and on hiking trails enough that casual clothes are still jeans and tshirts. But on occasion I do like to dress up and I prefer the simple dress, seamed stockings, hat and a coat look to more contemporary styles. Can you recommend places (on line, preferably) where I could look for clothes like these? I suspect it would be much easier if I could just make them myself, but I don’t have a sewing machine, or a room (or a table,even) to devote to learning how to do this. Maybe down the road, but not now … so I’m looking to buy things ready-made. Any ideas?

Hi hon, oooh, the 1930s look! So lovely, so troublesome…the 1930s were when modernism really hit its stride sartorially, and fabric prints and tailoring veered off in lots of quirky directions. Personally, with my curves, I am a 1940s gal. But if you want the 1930s, then by the Goddess, you shall have it. It just so happens that here in New Zealand, we are coming up on Art Deco weekend in Napier, and so lots of us here in the Antipodes will be getting their 1930s on as well.

This is a good website to just get ideas about the 30s look: Fashion-Era.

And here’s another one: Giant Pants of the 30s.

In the 1930s you would have day dresses – a range of dresses or outfits worn during the daytime – and, if you were so lucky, evening dress. Day dresses had hemlines between the knee and the calf, most of the time – the flapper’s naughty hemlines were over – usually had sleeves, and were often accesorized with a hat and gloves. Smart suits were also worn during the day, made of fabrics from wool crepe to tweed. Chanel got started with her suits in the 1930s. Evening dress was made of more glamorous fabrics, and accessorized with jewelry, long gloves, and corsages. I’ve had a long, bias-cut, 30sish black evening dress in my wardrobe for 20 years. It still fits (just!) and still gets worn.

Blog inspiration can be found at SammyD’s Vintage (overview with hints), Kitty’s Vintage Kitsch (tutorial!) and The Dreamstress. I shared The Dreamstress’ “Gran’s Garden” 1930s dress with American Magpie, who said it was just the thing, but that she couldn’t sew.

Now, where to find these looks ready-made? To evoke a 1930s garden party for under $75 US,  my #1 recommendation is going to be hitting up consignment stores or eBay. Tea-length floral silk/rayon dresses and tea-length skirts, bias-cut or pleated, are not at the top of the fashion hit parade at the moment, which means consignment/eBay is a great source. Vintage Coldwater Creek and Liz Claiborne, in rayon or silk, often has lovely 1930sish lines. There was an Art Deco revival in the 1970s, so to find ’70s vintage that looks ’30s, search on “does 30s” or “does 1930s” to find 70s-does-30s and 80s-does-30s styles.

A range of EBay finds: Laura Ashley, Karen Millen, and Stop Staring.

A range of 30sish EBay finds: Laura Ashley “day dress”, Karen Millen evening dress, and Stop Staring dress that could be day or evening.

If you want to spend between $100 and $200 US, there’s a site called Trashy Diva that does ravishing retro dresses, and their Obi dress, on sale now, has a great 30s-like line. I am happy to vouch for their fabrics and say that this would be a fab investment special occasion dress, flexible for all kinds of events. Looking around, I also found some appealing, well-priced reproduction 30s and 40s dresses at Stop Staring, Heyday, and ModCloth. And, of course, there are custom vintage reproduction dresses galore on Etsy – their 1930s selection seems skewed towards cotton daywear. I recommend Heart My Closet, especially the Ivy, Darcy, or Serena pencil dresses. Because they are custom made you can request a tea-length skirt, which takes them to the 1930s.  The Dreamstress also takes commissions, if her schedule allows.

We tend to focus on dresses, for some reason – we’re all in love with the idea of the magic dress – so I encourage you to consider top/skirt combinations. If you have curves, it can be far easier to find a great-fitting top/skirt combination than it is to find a bias-cut dress that fits just right. For a true 30s look, necklines were high, and most blouses had some sleeve.

Would have been worn during the day with hat and gloves.

1930s skirt ensembles from a pattern.

For some retro-flavored tops and skirts, here’s a stealth source: Pendleton! The Tuck it Up, Tie Front, and double-breasted blouses look great to me.  (I find vintage Pendleton on eBay less appealing than their new stuff,) I also love this tie-neck knit top from Talbots. Both Pendleton and Talbots have lots of petites, recommended because I know American Magpie is, like me, petite in height.

Why are you not going to the Pendleton web site right now?

Strikingly retro Pendleton tops from their current sale.

Shoes and accessories can take clean-lined contemporary clothes in a vintage direction. How about investing in some vintage 30s jewelry – such as Bakelite bangles, Czech glass necklaces, paired rhinestone dress clips, brooches for coats or dress/blouse lapels, Trifari costume jewelry, rock crystal necklaces. The 1930s were not one of the great jewelry eras, due to the Depression, so I’d add 1920s and Art Nouveau necklaces and bracelets to the mix. Pearls have never been more affordable thanks to Chinese pearl farmers (eBay, Fire Mountain Gems, your favorite local bead store). Rennie Mackintosh silver, and silver and marcasite jewelry, are also perfect for the Art Deco look.

To avoid overdoing it with gloves, hats, jewelry, scarves, costume jewelry, etc. when they were all worn more frequently, a lady would get dressed, put on her acessories, and then take one accessory off. Also, for a true 1930s look, stick with smooth body-toned hosiery, possibly with seams. Fishnets were trampy back then!

Lastly there’s yet another Art Deco revival happening out there – you can thank the upcoming Great Gatsby movie for that – so I would look in your favorite stores this season for Art Deco-flavored tops to team with skirts or Giant Pants.

I know I just recommended this book in another recent post, but I Capture the Castle has a lot of commentary about women’s clothing in the 1930s. It’s also a great story that you can share with your stepdaughter.

Coda: After more conversation, and an exchange of photographs and measurements,  I mailed American Magpie a vintage silk dress that was waiting patiently in my closet, in an international clothes swap. Here’s a picture of the dress. The long lines, ditsy print, and fine chiffon ruffles give it a 1930s feel.

30sish dress

A 30s-ish dress that’s about 10 years old. Silk chiffon/light crepe, with pearl shell buttons.

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Friday Follies: Boom, I Got Your Girlfriends

A Style Enthused Young Woman makes so much classic East Coast style superfresh. Click to view her Tumblr.

Blog crushes of the week: for a dose of urban femme realness, check out the  Tumblrs Femme Dreamboat and A Style Enthused Young Woman.  After reading these, my heart went pitter-pat. Then I went and put on lots of bright lipstick. Lots.

And for my USA and Europe readers, here is an enchanting Wellington sewing blog by my friend Joy – not just great sewing projects, but a lovely slice of Kiwi life – A Charm of Magpies.

Let’s say you love retro looks, especially the curve-flattering silhouettes of the 40s and 50s, but you stop short of the full-scale vintage-pinup-everything look. This discussion at You Look Fabulous about “bombshell” style is for you. And me. More on this soon, in fact.

The sweet urbanity of those Tumblrs reminds me that I am going to be in the U.S.A. later this year. I’ll be there from May 4th to June 4th. My itinerary: New Haven, CT; New York, NY; Philadelphia, PA; Bryn Mawr, PA; Los Angeles, CA. When I’m in New Haven and Philadelphia, I have some free time. Just sayin’!

And I’m going to be at this blogger meetup here in Wellington next Sunday! Last time looked lovely and I’m really looking forwards to it.

Finally, a 21st-century remix of an 80s classic. Hot pink hasn’t looked better since.

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2013 Style Forecast: Relaxed With A Chance of Apocalypse, Retro Still Not Dead

We’re starting the future, yet again – whether we like it or not – and this does impact what we wear and how we think about it. And at the start of 2013, change is in the warm and windswept air. Ten years ago “retro” as we know it was happening for everyone. Now the fashion-forward are starting to dress like extras from the last two scenes of Cloud Atlas.

Sonmi-451 and her fellow fabricants from Cloud Atlas are on trend with vivid nails, a shot of hair color, and antidepressant beverages.

Times are still tough, but instead of “homeland security” our anxiety is Soft Apocalypse-style.  Global warming and geological crises are impacting our daily lives. Our diets are changing, slowly but surely. And the madness of governments seems more normal to us, even as we distance ourselves from it by packing our own “go” bags.

A half-day reviewing December’s fashion glossies didn’t bring my retinas much retro. Tellingly, the only mag showcasing a retro summer look for us Antipodeans was Redbook. Magazines from the winter side of the world presented go-bag ready styles – sporty, survival-ish quilted puffers and military-style coats are edging out structured wool coats. Huge, sleek totes and doctor’s bag-style satchels are in, one promising the comfort of being able to carry everything, the other giving the bag’s carrier some borrowed intellectual oomph.

(Postapocalyptic fashion…in a world where we forage amongst the rags, there seems to be an awful lot of Manic Panic hair dye left. And we all want to bare our newly honed abs! I prefer Women Fighters in Reasonable Armor for my post-societal-collapse looks, thanks.)

In blogland, some of my favorite style bloggers are relaxing from high glam into more bohemian looks. Hair is long and ruffled, or in caplike pixie cuts; pendants swing, bib  necklaces clank; shoes sprout spikes and defensive excrescences in all directions. Wardrobe Oxygen’s literal wardrobe got totaled by Hurricane Irene in 2011. What New Yorkers wore during Hurricane Sandy is uncannily similar to what Wellingtonians wear, um, most of the time. “When the world goes to hell perfume can help one feel as though things are at least normal,” says Unseen Censer in this post on Perfume for a hurricane after Hurricane Sandy in 2012.

NZ designers Cybele and Ricochet have blazed the path here. Free People (free shipping to NZ!), and Black Milk are in the forefront of this new relaxation.  Gudrun Sjoden and Pink Chicken are more modest/sexless-in-that-“quirky!” way manifestations of this. I am impressed with the way style blogger Wardrobe Oxygen makes this look achievable. Stuff in New Zealand has a crisp little summary of 2013 styles that is worth reading if you care about fashion.

So, is Miss Retro dead? 1940s to early 1960s style retro is now more accessible than it’s ever been. Makeup, dresses, shoes, instructions, hairdressers, you name it. Rockabilly and pin-up subculture has swelled to the point that we ought to fret about the fine line between “icon” and “clone.”  I have a few 50s-influenced looks and finds ready for this year, but I’ve worked to keep away from the standard rockabilly palette of red-blue-black-white. Sometimes with the help of a vat of fabric dye! Here’s some of my favorite hues and prints from my wardrobe – some classically retro, some not.

Just visualize me wearing it, OK? I had a hard day.

Retro flavored fabrics, from the 50s to the 70s. From the left: “cabbage tree” cotton dress, grey leopard print, electric 70s silk, a 50s classic, marbled 70s silk, and the dyed-by-me purple and turquoise hues of full skirts.

And I am opening my mind to Ms. Retro, with inspiration from everywhere but the ’50s cocktail lounge. Zippers and velocipede-riding ensembles from the Victorians, embroideries and voiles from the Edwardians, lissom 20s and 30s lines (hi, Giant Pants of the 30s), later 60s and 70s kookiness. I’ve had a preview of BeHome in Miramar – they’re stocking sleeker tunics in linen, in shades of navy, coral, and white that channel the 30s and the late 60s at the same time.

Where retro style and the apocalypse meet – besides the 1950s nuclear bunker, of course – is in their rejection of “fashion.” Right now, several of my intelligent friends are formally withdrawing from buying any new clothes in 2013, rejecting fast fashion consumerism. Other intelligent friends have officially (and unexpectedly) declared their allegiance to retro styles, for individual reasons underlined by perplexity at the demands of current styles.

Sensing this withdrawal from the artificial fray, some tastemakers declare fashion trends themselves entirely passe. A timely dodge that lets us all concentrate on what suits us best in between the changes of 2013.