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Friday Follies: Did Somebody Say Boudoir?

1927 evening gown, as drawn by Vera of http://www.verabee.com on "Draw This Dress"

Draw This Dress or, fashion from old people Delightful blog where talented artists draw vintage dresses.  I’m very taken with Vera Brosgol’s work – her prints are for sale here.

From the webcomic Dresden Kodak – mad science girl’s path to “gaining a diseased mind fit only for science.” I too went through the “Sign Your Name Only In Tengwar” phase.

Crusin’ Australia has vintage repro shoes and does $12 shipping worldwide. Sizes 5 to 12. Made of leather. Suede dancing soles available. This pretty much solves all my shoe whining issues.

Dunbar and Sloane, the Wellington auction house, is having a significant “vintage costume and boudoir accessories” auction.  Massive online catalog is available, in-person viewing starts from Sunday August 7th. I don’t need anything but I’ll go along to see.  “Finesse Emerald Green Leather Clutch Purse together with green kid Gloves.” Hmmm. “Three Vintage Unopened Pairs of Stockings together with Priestley’s velvet talcum powder tin, unopened.” Awww! “Selection of Vintage Sewing and Knitting Patterns.” Hwaaaaa! Thanks to Tamara of Seven is a Journey for this hot tip!

 

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Grandma’s Vintage Fur: Is It Valuable? Is It Ethical? How Do I Sell It?

Now for a much more seasonal post: vintage fur. UPDATE! After oodles of queries I have created a new post, Selling Grandma’s Vintage Fur. This includes a vintage fur price range list for the winter of 2012/2013. You may find answers to fur price questions. I have also created, in January 2015, a second post, Furs You Can’t Sell: what to do with vintage endangered fur pieces.

Vintage fur calls for one's most demented smile. Moment of madness captured by Digitalpix.

Another image courtesy of Digitalpix!

I am dealing with a spate of questions from people about vintage furs. I love both taxidermy and vintage clothing – the stuffed dead animals in my retroish living room make me a go-to person for this.

I know that fur is not a neutral topic! People have strong feelings about it! One time, my fur-clad stepmother had paint thrown on her by anti-fur protestors outside a New York furrier. But, still, the old furs endure, and they are emerging from closets as my friends’ grandmothers pass away, and what do you do with them?

I’ve put together some vintage fur basics, compiled from what I have seen online, what I have seen selling and not selling at vintage clothing stores around the world, and the furs I’ve had through my hands lately.

Lots of information behind the cut about what makes a vintage fur valuable, how to keep your fur, ways to recycle it, and how to sell it.

[Read more]

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Cocktails with Cthulu

Another vintage dress from my collection! This is an early 1960s cocktail dress, in a delishful  “wiggle dress” cut, made of slate-to-cerulean-blue crepe. The strange tassel detail at the neck reminds me irresistibly of Cthulu – cephalopod god of unimaginable evil turned Internet meme and geek mascot.

Most fortuitously, a photographer friend snapped me wearing it:

In his house beneath Ry'leh, dead Cthulu lies dreaming...of an apertif...

See how flattering it is? That is why the wiggle dress, and other vintage styles, are having a renaissance (as noted in this NY Times article).

Detail shots time.  Here we have the cephalopod-evoking tassel and the eldritch folding detail. In the shot where I’m wearing it, we can see how the folding becomes flattering bust accommodation. This is yet another vintage dress missing its belt – based on the belt loops, the belt was about two inches/six centimeters wide. The label says “Helen Harper.” This vintage brand was better known for its knitwear. Obviously, this was manufactured under occult influences!

The assymmetrically folded front front is gathered up into the Cthulu tassel.

And the inside. You can tell this was all class because it’s fully lined. Also, note the overlocking!

What lies beneath the crepe fabric of evil beyond the stars? Mass-produced but high-quality finishing.

From the back, the lining is separate from the zipper. And the separately lined waist and skirt are stitched, then overlocked, together.

Skirt lining is separate from the skirt zipper. The separate sections are overlocked at the waist.

This dress is extremely comfortable to wear, and the crepe fabric, spun from nameless fibers, does not crease much, yet lacks the hideous “oh god this is a synthetic, take it off me” feeling.  My educated guess is that it is rayon, or a rayon blend.

I’d say this dress was a lucky find except that when I don it, I can hear the voices, whispering from beyond, “Ph’nglui mglw’nafh Cthulhu R’lyeh wgah’nagl fhtagn!”

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Vintage Hair and Makeup With Debonaire Doos

This past Saturday, more than twenty-five of us wedged ourselves into a room in downtown Wellington. Miss Tittle Tattle had come to visit Wellington for a burlesque performance and for the day after, she had organized a Debonaire Doos vintage hair and makeup workshop. Because Debonaire Doos often does the hair and makeup for a popular pin-up photographer, she’s an expert at doing retro transformations – often on up to 8 women at a time. We showed up with plain faces, slightly grimy hair (to help vintage styles take hold), and our tiny makeup satchels.

Miss Tittle Tattle of Debonaire Doos curls the hair of Miss La Belle. In the background, Marilyn Monroe approves.“When  come to Wellington, it’s like a holiday!” Miss Tittle Tattle purred. I find this hard to believe, because she put herself through her paces in this very intense demonstration. In her delicate, musical voice,  she told us what we needed to know about creating a “vintage look” with hair and makeup, and demonstrated on models Miss La Belle (pictured) and Kelly. The “vintage look”  is the classic face we see in images of the 40s and 50s: the smooth, perfect face with vivid lips and cleanly defined brows and eyes.  Miss Tittle Tattle shared with us the tools for a vintage hair set, the vintage face aesthetic, and guidelines on colors and makeup application, demonstrating on her lovely models all the while. We asked all sorts of questions. I’m not going to give away all her wisdom, but a few of the tidbits included:

* If you’re in Wellington and you want the vintage-curl-friendly “Middy” haircut, go to Danny at the Powder Room salon.

* Put down the hair straightener and walk away from it. You can curl with it, but you shouldn’t, if you want a vintage look. Use steam rollers instead – these lift the roots of your hair and set the curl correctly down to the very tips of your hair.

* When you’re ready to undo a vintage set, take the top curlers out first, handling the hair gently. Then undo the lower curlers.

* Maybelline Eye Studio gel liner is great for cats’ eyes, and affordable too.

* Getting the correct cat-eye liner look is challenging, and takes practice. But “the first time you get your cats’ eye liner right feels fantastic. It’s like the first time you tassel twirl!”

We all know about the multiplicity of vintage-look videos on YouTube by now, and they are very helpful. Still, there’s nothing like being there, especially for kinesthetic learning, live in three dimensions. For me, the two best things to see in person were how you brush your hair after you’ve taken it out of the set to turn it into your smooth, finished vintage style, and how to do those  notoriously challenging cats’-eye lined eyes. We had some play time of our own after the hair and makeup demonstrations. I focused on my face, and here are the before and after looks:

My face, in fluorescent lighting, before and after I applied vintage makeup. Did I mention the fluorescent lighting?

Notice how the strong cat’s-eye liner and mascara makes my eye asymmetry less noticeable (if you didn’t notice it before in Photo #1, you’ll see it now that I’ve mentioned it). And the red lips provide contrast to my green eyes.  Craziest of all, I did those cat’s eyes myself, in a tiny hand mirror, after Miss Tittle Tattle’s instructions. It’s the first time I’ve ever gotten it right!  Well, “right” if the value of “right” = “Amy Winehouse, pre-bender.”

Afterwards, I walked down the street with a friend, both of us still percolating with enthusiasm after the workshop. “I want her to come back and do a six-week course!” my friend enthused. “Maybe if you have a web cam, you could get a consultation with her on Skype?” Then, we were distracted by hats. But that’s another story.